Proof you can still find places with a character and mystery all their own:
I've not written one of these reviews before, but this is a worthy exception. If you ever feel that even special places you enjoy are losing ground to Walmarts & Jiffy Lubes, then I highly recommend a restorative stay at Gallina Canyon Ranch, with its unique, even mystical sense of place.
I spent a week at Jacal after 3 nights in Wilderness Casita, the other rental on the ranch (see below). I enjoyed both immensely. If you are lucky enough, stay a week or more at Jacal --it takes time to slough off the cares and concerns of everyday life, but that is a wonderful gift this place offers. I found Jacal to have a meditative quality, even though I didn't literally meditate (and I would certainly recommend it for that purpose). The respite from life as I know it began with the memorable drive to Jacal, as David in his truck skillfully forded the Rio Gallina, which winds hither and thither through the gorgeous canyon.
Given its remote location, Jacal was extremely well-equipped for a comfy stay. For example, I enjoyed a hot shower each night (shower bags works well if you've not used one before). And what a pleasure to sit by kerosene lamp as the sun set, and then to watch the stars from the porch --or the privy! -- glorious in a TRULY dark sky. Unforgettable. And the bed was very comfortable.
I truly enjoyed the place and also the people here. Elizabeth and Andrew, and David were gracious, unobtrusive hosts, fun and informative. Ask David for a guided hike up the canyon walls to one of the ruins of the Gallina Indians -- the ancient human history here is palpable. And given that this is now a working ranch, I liked knowing that as a guest I was supporting pasturing practices that benefit the land and the animals-- no over-grazing here. For me, this was just a remarkable place for a retreat -- to hike the canyon and to paint on the beautiful, open porch at Jacal. I think couples would also enjoy a romantic, outdoorsy adventure here. This is the kind of place that stays with you, and draws you into its spell... I felt fortunate to "discover" it, and found my stay unexpectedly recuperative.
Should you stay at both casitas, I loved the deck at Wilderness Casita which E & A describe as a sleeping loft. I loved that use, and also recommend it as a "porch in the sky" for all times of day. It was mesmerizing to watch the light play across the canyon walls in the late afternoon.
One last note: if you hike the canyon, plan for frequent river crossings, depending on season/weather. David can tell you about spots to avoid.
I can't wait to return!
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